Build Your CNC

Alessandro's CNC Machine Build with Guitar Example

2008-11-01T10:35:00.000-07:00

I have gotten a lot of requests asking, can this machine make a guitar? Alessandro created a 2nd generation CNC machine using this website as a guide and from the images he provided, I can say he was quite successful. Not only that, he also built his electronics from scratch and his wire management is absolutely fantastic. Read on...

Maker Faire Austin 2008 Fabrication

2008-11-01T10:33:00.000-07:00

As always, the Maker Faire was an awesome experience. There were makers from all over. All of the really great stuff was exhibited like engineering, crafts, sustainable technology, art and other interesting things that was conjured up by makers. Can you guess what my favorite part of the show was? Well... Fabrication, of course. Oh yeah, they were nice enough to slap on a couple of Editor's Choice ribbons (very very shameless plug). Read on...

Single Starts, 2 Starts, 5 Starts, TPI, Lead, HUH?!?

2008-09-23T19:34:00.000-07:00

I think it's about time to talk about lead screws. So, what is a lead screw that is always mentioned throughout this website. Lead screws also have all of these terminologies and esoteric language that I will demystify. Maybe you will also start to understand the math behind the linear motion and how different lead screws will provide various linear motion characteristics.

Some Information about End Mills (Rotational Cutters) for CNC Machines

2008-07-09T15:28:00.000-07:00

I receive a healthy dose of questions about end mills and which ones that I use. I usually respond with answers like, my end mill will probably differ from your end mill. So, what is this thing called an end mill anyhow. If you are new to CNC machining and routing, you may have never heard of the thing. I could imagine people googling something like, "CNC bits". Using the terminology "bit" is not all that incorrect. Bits are commonly referred to as drill bits, but routers use router bits. If you're looking to cut various metals and composites, end mills are the tools of choice. However, end mills will also work on wood, depending on the type of end mill selected. Read on...

The CNC Process - From CAD to Product

2008-06-16T21:59:00.000-07:00

I have put together a video tutorial of the entire process from drawing a part in CAD (Computer Assisted/Aided Design) to the final product that is cut out from the CNC machine. This three part series will step you through the design of a very simple object that uses drills and profiles. Drills are simply holes created from the end mill (router bit) into the material and profiles are horizontal cuts, usually in geometric form, that create various shapes. Read on and watch the videos...

Video Wiring Instruction for the Electronics Combo

2008-06-16T21:58:00.000-07:00

I finally got around to creating step by step instructions on how to connect the stepping motors, drivers, power supplies, fan and computer. These videos detail the procedure for wiring the electronics combo for sale here. This may also show similar wiring schemes for other systems like Geckos. Read/View on...

DIY Coupling: Motor to the Leadscrew

2008-05-14T14:02:00.000-07:00

This creative coupling solution comes from another generous user of the site (Marc K.). He has devised a way to couple the motor to the leadscrew with standard aluminum tubing. Marc has graciously allowed me to show you this creative idea. Read on...

Creative Commons

2008-05-14T14:01:00.000-07:00

I am extending the rights associated to the work I'm doing here. I have licensed my work and kits under the Creative Commons Attribution License. Since this is a machine that can replicate itself, I'm giving the users the right to be able to reproduce the machine and elements of the machine for non-commercial distribution. So, if you purchase or build the machine, you can improve upon the design and/or make reproductions of it and give it to others, but you must attribute the credit to this work and site. Click on the license to get more information.

CNC Machine Workpiece Clamping

2008-04-21T23:19:00.001-07:00

This technique comes from one of the users of this site (Robert L). He has come up with a brilliant clamping idea. I get many emails asking, "how do you clamp your workpiece." I would often reply with the screw and wood scrap idea, but when I saw the method below, I knew this was the one to seriously consider. The historic reference is icing on the cake. When he talks about the moving to various positions, he is making reference to g-code. He specifies, assuming that you have zeroed out the correct position of the origin, that you move to x0 y0... and so on. You would read on...

CNC Machine v1.2 Kit Assembly Videos Released

2008-04-21T23:16:00.000-07:00

If you enjoy the antics of the family chaotically trying to assembly the CNC Machine, or you just want to know how to do the assembly, watch the videos. My wife tries to do it, but I think she better at filming the process. :)

Demonstration of the CNC Ver. 1.2 Kit

2008-04-07T15:14:00.000-07:00

There have been a few requests for a demonstration of the new CNC Router Kit Ver. 1.2. Since I have been hard at work cutting out a bunch of CNC parts for shipping, I dusted off the camera and shot a bit of the CNC in action. The beginning of the video shows actual speed. The video is sped up so a majority of the cutting can be shown. Enjoy the video and as always, give me some feedback.

CNC Kit Ver 1.2 Update and Video

2008-02-16T22:52:00.000-08:00

Update:
I've added a video to give a first look at the version 1.2 kit. I would like to thank all those that purchased the CNC kit during the development phase of the new expandable CNC router kit. Your patience is greatly appreciated and you will find that as I state below, the price you are paying is well worth the wait. Below, you will see a video of the progress of the machine. It is nearly completed and I can start on the next phase: production. Errata to the video: I state that the smaller kit has a routing area of 24" x 48" and the correction is that the x-axis actually has a longer routing area than 48" (approximately 51") due to the modular pieces being used.

After understanding the amount of work that goes into creating this CNC machine, the price points will be higher than previously stated. Read on...

CNC Machine Pecking

2008-02-16T22:51:00.000-08:00

So, what does a woodpecker do? It pecks, and the pecking is to bore a hole. It would be very difficult for a woodpecker to bore a hole in a tree with just one thrust into the tree. The same goes with machining various materials. I previously mentioned pecking in a previous page, but I think it's important to mention it with an example. Read on with video...

New CNC Router Kit Ver 1.2

2008-02-11T21:34:00.000-08:00

No, my son didn't build it, as much as he wanted to. That drill he is holding will soon be in a very deep hiding place. Thank goodness cordless drills are cheap! The new expandable CNC Router Machine is in the final phase of development and everything is fitting perfectly and sliding smoothly. In the image above, you will notice a few pieces to the CNC machine. I'm only showing about half of the pieces necessary to assemble the complete CNC. All of these parts are machined so the alignments will be to acceptable tolerances. You will also notice that the CNC machine's structure is beefed up. This machine is built like a house. Read on...

Prototype PCB Finally Arrives

2008-01-31T07:49:00.001-08:00

The Printed Circuit Board (PCB) finally arrived in the mail today. I can't believe it took so long, but I'm excited regardless. I spent about 4 days non-stop... Driving my wife and kids crazy designing this thing. It was so bad that when I got up from the continual sitting position, my back had some serious hurtin'. I fit 3 axes in an extremely small footprint. Not that I really had to work in such a confined space... I mean, I could have just purchased the Eagle license to work with a larger board area, right? The board is about half the size of a slice of bread. Yep, that's why it took me four days, and the signal routing was especially fun?!? Read on...

Expandable CNC Router!

2008-01-20T19:24:00.000-08:00

I have devised a CNC Router that is actually expandable, in a modular way. Does one even exist in this world? At this time, I'm offering pre-sales introductory prices for these units. The standard CNC router kit will also take on these same design features and they are offered also. Introductory prices will be $750 for the expandable CNC router that will have a routing area of 2'x4' expandable to a whopping 4'x8'. Yes, I said it right, routing area! The non-expandable CNC router with an actual routing area of 2'x4' has an introductory pre-sale price of $405.00. These prices are only available during this design phase to implementation (a price break for the expanded lead time, if you will). Once the kits are available, new purchasers will have to pay the regular price of $1050 (expandable) and $550 (non-expandable) respectively. See the kit in the sales page.

A New Combo CNC Kit is Available

2008-01-20T19:21:00.000-08:00

Hamburger? Not! ... Tasty? Absolutely not! ... Fulfilling and enjoyable? YES! Well, if your a fabricator junkie like me. This is the budget kit that replaces the MDF pieces with cut sheets and plans. These are my hand picked components and hardware for the perfect leap into this CNC process. You will also get the cut sheets and plans for cutting the necessary MDF pieces (including my easier and improved design). This is the perfect kit if you don't want the expense of shipping all of the MDF with the original kit read on...

CNC Structure Kit Ready

2008-01-04T10:20:00.000-08:00

It's the new year and the kit is ready to go! Check out that beautiful dust collector and vacuum attachment. When I turned this on and started cutting, my alergenic wife, in total shock, said "there's no dust!" I was confidently standing beside her in the "I told you so" mode.

The size of this kit, if purchased as standard, will travel 40" in the x direction, 20" in the y direction and 5" in the z direction. Other table sizes are possible upon request. The lead time for this kit is 7 to 10 days and read on...

Electronics Kit in Development

2008-01-04T10:19:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!! Although the CNC structure kit is available, I'm still in prototype stage with the electronics. The driver design has changed slightly to take advantage of more power to enable a wider variety of stepper motors. The electronics will now be based on the L297 and L6304 combo and will drive bi-polar stepping motors up to a whopping 4 amps per phase. The driver circuit will be designed to drive three axes without the need for a breakout board. That is to say, you will only need one driver board that the parallel port will connect read on...

CNC Kit in Development

2007-12-19T09:16:00.000-08:00

Wow, it's that time of year again and Christmas is right around the corner. This means that I have my vacation and during this time I will produce a CNC kit, of course. While on my vacation, I'm developing the electronics and a CNC structure kit. The kit will include all of the necessary components to either construct the CNC structure, motor drivers (electronics that connect to the computer and the motors), or both. Read on...

Pipe CNC Step 1: Linear Slide Mechanism and Concept

2007-11-22T20:51:00.000-08:00

Happy thanksgiving for those that live in the United States. This is my first post in the Research and Development section of this website. You are probably wondering why I am adding the pipe CNC machine in such an illusive section. I want visitors of this website to know that this machine is a work in progress and all of the bugs and concepts are not fully known yet. Anyway, this enables me to share some of the ideas that run through my head.

I am starting with the first video of the pipe CNC. I am going to first demonstrate the concept of how the aluminum angle of the linear slide fits in and connects to the pipe assembly. Then I will construct Read on...

New R & D (Research and Development) Section

2007-11-22T20:44:00.000-08:00

I have added a new section to the website to show my work in progress. I'm starting the new section out with the first video of the pipe CNC. I would like to get feedback on the R & D idea and the content within. My hope is for collaboration, design ideas, suggestions, and comments to be engendered through this section. I would like this research and development section to be very broad, touching on ideas of linear motion, backlash removal/mitigation, frugal assembly concepts and resources for design and research.

With the introduction of the pipe CNC (sneak peek), I have already gotten many ideas to come my way. I encourage more ideas and I will post them all, with a bit of evaluation and collaboration with you. For now, enjoy the new section.

Bill of Materials Revision

2007-11-14T19:53:00.000-08:00

I've added the electronics to the BOM (Bill of Materials) page. It is a skeleton list and I intend to improve the list with numerous options, and pictures of what each item looks like.

Sneak Peek: A Totally New CNC Machine (In Pipe!)

2007-11-13T20:49:00.000-08:00

I'm back and I have a treat for you. I have been doing a lot of tinkering lately (yup, that's why!). I cannot get the mechanical aspect of CNCs out of my system, so until then, enjoy the crazy concoctions.

Today, I'm offering a sneak peek to what I've been working on for the past two weeks. It is possible to build this CNC within a weekend, if you have all of the correct parts. In addition, manual cutting and power tools are at a minimum. So far, the only major tool that I've used is a hack saw to cut-off some threaded rod (very simple). With the vast selection of pipe sizes, the scalability for this CNC machine is great. I have also been recording the build on video... again. Read on...

Step 36 - Software Toolchain Part 3 - The toolchain concept

2007-10-31T21:56:00.000-07:00

Happy Halloween! At this point, you should have the control software that is described in Software Part 1 or Software Part 2. Software part 1 shows the process to install Mach3 and Software Part 2 shows the process to install a Linux control software application called EMC2. If you're still unsure what I'm talking about, then here is my detailed explanation of the entire workflow. Later posts will go ito greater detail and tutorial on each program.

The entire link from the design all the way to the motors and motion goes like this: First you need to design something. Lets say you want to cut out a square piece of wood that is 3/4" thick, 2" in length and 2" in width. You will first design the square in a Read on...

Maker Faire Experience

2007-10-27T20:35:00.000-07:00

You know that feeling when you're just a little person arriving to Disney? My Maker Faire experience was better, even going through a serious illness. Indulge me for a moment while I have a flashback. I find myself continually browsing the internet, pulling up my feeds, printing the latest posts and reading the information like my wife would admire platinum on her finger. And all focused on technology, building, hacking, modding, robotics, mechatronics, mechanics and electronics. This faire is that and more! If you have a chance to travel the world and see something, see the Maker Faire, and if you're a frequent visitor to this website, I'm sure you wouldn't regret it.

Apparently, the Maker Faire will exhibit twice a year, first at San Mateo, California (near my stomping grounds at Berkeley) in the Spring, and second in Austin Texas in the Fall. Austin is nice and sunny that part of year, and San Mateo is nice all year-round which is located in the Bay Area, near San Francisco and Berkeley. Read on...

Builder's Spotlight: Dave C.'s CNC

2007-10-15T19:32:00.000-07:00

Dave C. is building his CNC Router with patience and method. He is equipped with some nice tools to make sure the form and mechanics are perfect. When he first told me he was working with these power tools, I was very jealous and I wanted some fancy power tools for myself.

Dave's CNC machine is another alteration in the works. The bed of the CNC machine is stiffened by steel. He is using cross dowels for all of the connections. The rails are mechanically fastened to the rail support pieces. And he is using some Read More...

CNC Demonstration 1: Routing the P.COC Logo

2007-10-14T22:01:00.000-07:00

You've got to be asking yourself, what is a P.COC logo? First of all, P.COC stands for Project for Complete Open CNC, and it also sounds like Peacock (the bird with beautiful feathers that open up, get it??). The graphical part of the logo uses a screw as the body of the bird and nuts to symbolize the feathers. My wife thinks it looks like the sun and I should lose the screw. The logo symbolizes the philosophy behind all that I do here, volunteer my time to show how to build a completely open source CNC routing machine. I have also designed a logo to be cut out on the CNC Router, and how cool would it be to initiate my demonstrations with that logo. Read More...

Step 35: Software Toolchain: EMC2 Under Linux

2007-10-09T21:46:00.000-07:00

Before I get farther in the software toolchain for the Windows operating system, I will cover the primary software for Linux. If you are partial to Linux, or you think Linux is some kind of animal and don't know what the heck I'm talking about, this alternative software toolchain may interest you. This tutorial would not be complete without covering the open source side of CNC computer controls. You may find that using EMC2 (the CNC control that runs under Linux) may be a bit more problematic than Mach3 since there is limited CAD (design software) out there for the Linux operating system. Read More...

Builder's Spotlight: Lucan's CNC Router

2007-10-07T19:32:00.000-07:00

I was doing my usual research around the net, you know... to pass some time very late at night, and I came across a member of cnczone.com building one of Joe's CNC machines, and to my surprise, he was using the design from this site. I was very proud to say the least. This CNC router is setup very nicely, with a vacuum attachment and a few other interesting modifications. Lucan has also been cutting out an enormous amount of parts on this machine. He is in real production.

Since Lucan has had a bit of experience on this design and build, I asked him to give me some feedback as to any possible limitations of the machine, and all that he has learned. I also wanted to know Read More...

Mach3 and LazyCAM sales

2007-10-06T13:00:00.000-07:00

To further my efforts in this arena and help support this everything CNC project, I am adding the Mach3 and LazyCAM to my stuff for sales repertoire. Many viewers write me and ask which software package I would recommend. I can tell you that this is a totally non-biased answer because I was a die-hard EMC2 user until I started to play with Mach3. Don't get me wrong, I still like EMC2, but Mach3 saves me so much time, especially with LazyCAM. Read more...

Jacob R.'s CNC Router Machine AutoCAD Drawing File

2007-10-01T14:25:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Jacob R. we have an AutoCAD drawing file that contains the measurements and elements that he used on his machine. The link to the file is on his page here.

Builder's Spotlight: Jacob R.

2007-09-28T21:44:00.000-07:00

When I started this website, I though maybe I would get a few people building this machine, and to the tee. My intention was to make it so that they can provide their own alterations and sizes. With Jacob's machine, the intent lives up to it's promise. Jacob did enhancements to the bed of the machine, reinforcing it so it would not sag, but he did not stop there. This guy is a true modder. He salvaged a component from his router to serve as a clamp. He also enhanced the lead screw nut adapting a flange to secure to the transfer piece. He has also selflessly provided an AutoCAD file to share with this community (with Read More...

Step 34: Software Toolchain Part 1 - Mach3 Installation

2007-09-25T21:49:00.000-07:00

Now we come to the software section of this tutorial series. What's a software toolchain anyhow? Well, my fine feathered machinist... A software toolchain is a "chain" of software that enables the completion of an entire process from design to implementation. When I say chain, I mean a few programs.

In my explanation, I will discuss the individual software applications as the process is completed and I will get into more detail as I create the tutorials for each application. The toolchain can contain as many as three software applications, or as few as one. Read More...

See me at Maker Faire, Austin!

2007-09-22T23:50:00.000-07:00

I'm really excited to be at the Maker Faire October 20th and 21st. I have been a devoted reader of the Make magazine, instructables and anything Make related on the web. This will be my first time attending the Maker Faire, let alone exhibiting my humble creation. I would have loved to go to the San Francisco/San Mateo Maker Faire. I guess I moved away from San Francisco too early to catch it. Read More...

Builder's Spotlight: Jim S.

2007-09-19T13:37:00.000-07:00

Finally back in town after a conference in New York (for my day job). My youngest apprentice, Nicco had his first birthday yesterday. Chuck E. Cheese is quite event less on a weekday night, I found.

I would like to exhibit another build being completed by a dedicated viewer of this website. Jim S. emailed me in the infancy of this website and said he was interested in building the CNC. We have been emailing back and forth on various topics, which in turn gave me a good source of information for the website. Jim S.'s machine is looking Read More...

Step 33: Router Mount Part 4

2007-09-13T20:47:00.000-07:00

This is the final step for the first phase of the router mount. I say first phase, because I will build a vacuum attachment that will also serve as an additional router mount. You will see the method at which I mount the router in this video. Instead of routing out a perfect circle, and we all know how good I am at routing out circles, and squeezing the circle around the router housing, the router mount will come in two parts and act like a vice. I did not want to put any undue stress on the wood by using the squeeze method, but it woks fine. I used it on my last machine and I had no problems and I even used only 1/2" thick MDF for the mount.

Step 32: Router Mount Part 3

2007-09-10T20:14:00.000-07:00

I'll bet that you didn't think that the router mount for a CNC machine would take so long to build. This is probably why I waited so long to build it. All of the parts of this CNC machine is so easy to build. The router mount really is much more complex with all of the curves and the need to mount a pretty heavy router is not that easy, but don't let that scare ya'.

In this video, I'm installing the back part of the router mount. This piece will be sandwiched between the z-axis bearing supports. This will not only serve as the mount for the router, but it stabilizes the z-axis bearings as well. Read More...

Step 31: Router Mount Part 2

2007-09-06T21:53:00.000-07:00

So we have the mount all drawn up on the board. It's time to do some cutting. This mount will have two parts, one for the back of the router that will be positioned between the z-axis bearing support pieces, and the second part that will provide the compression to hold the router in position.

You will first note that I did a horrible job with routing out the circle for the router. It makes me want my old CNC router back. Unfortunately I used it for parts on this build (the wife wouldn't let me buy new parts :) ). I definitely don't do a good job with freehand routing. A band saw Read More...

Step 30: The Router Mount Part 1

2007-09-03T18:34:00.000-07:00

The first of the videos for the router mount is finally edited and ready to post. The z-axis bearing supports were made in the current shape to be able to hold the router with a piece of stock in-between containing a hole for the router. This hole will need the ability to tighten against the router for stability and leveling. For my machine, I'm making one mount. This router mount will be positioned around the upper part of the router housing. Later, I will be installing a vacuum connection which will also serve as increased support for the router.

You are saying to yourself, what about my router and what if it's a different size. The method I chose will work for various router sizes. First, I measure the Read More...

Step 29: Heat Sink and Driver Connections

2007-09-01T00:26:00.000-07:00

Yes, we've use heat shrink, but now it's time for a heat sink. No, it's not a hot tub. A heat sink is usually a piece of metal that allows something that gets hot to dissipate the heat. It is advised for the three driver chips on the HobbyCNC board. The installation is straight forward. Holes are marked and then drilled. It is important to note that the drill will create many metal shavings. Metal shavings are incompatible to the proper functioning of the driver board. If any of those shavings get on the board, you will risk a blown chip. Before final installation of the heat sink, a white compound should be spread between the component and the metal, like a peanut butter sandwich. Read More...

Couplers for Sale... Finally!

2007-08-30T19:57:00.000-07:00

Couplers are finally in stock. These bad boys will fasten to your motor shaft and your lead screw nice and tight. The couplers that I sell are made by Lovejoy, as shown in the picture. You can see that the coupler is made of three parts. There are two hubs, one for each end, and a rubber insert. This gives the two shafts a tiny bit of flexibility while minimizing play.

Each hub can have different size bores (inside diameter of the hole). I have four bore sizes from which to choose (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8"); therefore, it is possible Read More...

Step 28: The X and Z Motor Wire Connections

2007-08-27T19:54:00.000-07:00

Why have one, when you can have two for the price of one. Really, I don't think I could do another wire soldering video, but there is some good instructional material here. Otherwise, I wouldn't waste your time.

Remember the hook method from the previous video? I'm doing it again, but with a little more detail. In addition, I do it with a little more efficiency. First, I connect all the wires at one time, then I solder them, like simple mass production. Then I heat shrink the connections, just like the last one. I will also show an interesting method of stripping the insulation of my sprinkler wire. I meant this website to be very detailed and cater to the layman, but still inform the design/mechanical savvy viewer. I just ask the latter for a little patients. Read More...

The Bill of Materials

2007-08-26T22:27:00.000-07:00

Many of you have asked me to provide a list of materials and costs for the CNC Machine. Here, I will provide a list of the materials, costs and where they can be purchased. In the list, I will also include various alternatives for different types of applications. This may include types of cutting tools, types of motors for the axes, etc. I will keep this list alive and updated in the "stuff for sale" in lieu of a better place. Please write me with suggestions, and if you know of better prices and places to get these materials. This list is a work in progress, since I wanted to make it available immediately. Most prices are from memory, until I find my receipts somewhere in one of my packing boxes, so you may see numbers change, but it gives you a general idea. Read More...

Step 27: Y-Axis Motor connection

2007-08-24T13:11:00.000-07:00

Now we come to the wire connections. To describe the bigger picture, first mechanically, the motors must turn the screw to provide linear power transmission (movement back and forth). The motor needs power to turn the motor shaft, so the motor connects to the driver board that will accept three motor connections, one for each axis. The driver board is connected to a power supply to provide power to the driver board. The computer is also connected to the driver board to provide step pulses and directions instructions. Read More...

Step 26: Power Supply Part 2 Completion

2007-08-21T21:08:00.000-07:00

This video will conclude the power supply circuit build. We left off at the capacitors and now we need to add the next capacitor. Two in all, and the capacitors will be connected in parallel. This will give me a relatively nice direct current (DC) voltage, which is our goal.

In the last video, I actually reversed the white and the green wires from the bridge rectifier to the capacitor. I connected the negative lead on the bridge rectifier to the positive lead to the capacitor. It's times like these you do not want to plug things in prematurely! I caught the error Read More...

Step 25: Power Supply Part 1

2007-08-18T22:56:00.000-07:00

Now, we get to the fun part. We get to play with electricity. Well, it's probably not something you want to play with. In fact, be extremely careful. I'm going to provide information that, if not treated with care and respect, is lethal. For those that do not know what lethal means, here is a definition: Letha = Death. In this case, it's not like quick painless death, but the slow-shocking-melting kind. I've touched 110 volts of house current before, and it's a weird but ugly feeling. Your body understands what alternating current (AC) really means.

Ok, let's get to the meat of the topic. First I would like to help you understand a couple of concepts first Read More...

Technique to Minimize Backlash by Gérard C.

2007-08-16T14:03:00.000-07:00

Getting rid of backlash seems to be the biggest concern for the CNC hobbyist, especially when milling PCBs since copper traces for surface mount devices are used. Surface mount devices are very small electronic parts that contain leads that are extremely close together, or the leads are found on the bottom of the component and the part usually lays flat on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

Gérard C. has an interesting technique in solving this problem using two special nuts, one on either side of the MDF, to minimize the backlash Read More...

Step 24: Stepper Driver Completion

2007-08-12T18:17:00.000-07:00

We are finally at the end of the driver assembly. This video also shows the most important part of the stepper driver assembly. In this step, you will solder in the driver chips, the heart of the board. You will also clean, inspect and set the board's configuration. Read More...

New Spotlight: Mick H. Fellow Builder

2007-08-09T22:19:00.000-07:00

You will see me add fellow builders on the site and they will then be highlighted in the Creations Gallery. Mosey on overy there periodically to see what's new. Today I'm spotlighting Mr. Mick H. He has been following the build and making great progress. He, just like the other fellow builders have added their own enhancements, which really makes them leaders in building these CNC machines. He noticed that the table, at the sixe of 24" x 48" will deflect a little as the gantry reaches the mid point of the table. He took his reinforcement to another level, shall we say he "spiced it up a bit".

From Mick (mostly verbatim): I decided to follow your plans initially and use your original dimensions, then Read More...

Revision on the Build: "Pimp My CNC Machine"

2007-08-07T23:05:00.000-07:00

If the large table size of 24" x 48" was a concern to you, well... that's a well founded concern. I have noticed a deflection of about 1/32" towards the center. The day after, a miracle happened... the nanny stepped on the machine and totally broke the cutting surface. No! It can't hold the weight of a person. I have subsequently reinforced the machine and totally tricked it out as you will see Read more...

Step 23: Driver Part 4

2007-08-07T23:00:00.000-07:00

The driver is almost to a completion. We have installed all of the tiny components. Now to the big components. This is the logical process of putting together any circuit kit. The small components are difficult to insert if the larger components are installed already. Believe me, I've tried. Especially if there are jumper wires or resistors needed underneath chips and sockets. Read More...

Spotlight on Fellow Builders

2007-08-05T22:24:00.000-07:00

I have the privilege to share with you some of the viewers builds. I will spotlight whoever shows me what they've built. When my fingers were dying from extreme metal ring strangulation from those $1 folding scissors, kind Mr. David K. came to the rescue and sent me a beautiful pair of side clips. Well, he's been hard at work building himself one of these CNC gizmos.

More exciting is that the builders have been creating variations to suit their needs. That was the intention of these videos, since the videos demonstrate a logical approach and Read More...

Step 22: Driver Part 3

2007-08-02T21:49:00.000-07:00

We haven't actually put that many components on the board yet, but in this video we will. I'm speeding up the video to get more components into this step. There are a lot of components on this board. With that said, I was actually able Read More...

Mosfets Explanation and Sales Page Correction

2007-08-01T22:19:00.000-07:00

Thanks to David K., an explanation of the illusive Mosfet is uncovered. I've added the explanation to the Step 21 text. Check it out here.

Another reader noticed an error in the sales page in the cross dowels section specifying a false quantity. The description has been revised. Thanks for the input and I welcome any questions, comments, suggestions and general criticism.

Step 21: Driver Part 2 - Caps, Resistor Networks and Mosfets

2007-07-31T21:04:00.000-07:00

The resistors are in, right? Ah, I know, you want to see the complete assembly before you dig in. Ok, on to this part of the assembly. Please don't ask me what Mosfets are, but the word sound cool! I can tell you that they stand for Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor. I have personally read about fifty descriptions of this electronic animal and I still can't figure it out. It doesn't say much for a Berkeley grad! Well, I'm open to some plain english interpretations without the word "drain" in them. Are you still with me? Read More...

Step 21: Driver Caps RN And Mosfets - The best video clips are right here

Stuff for Sale

2007-07-30T18:33:00.001-07:00

Yep, I'm selling things associated with this CNC build. You can get creative with them too. You know, like stick the bearings in actual skates, or something. But seriously, I'm offering stuff like bearings, cross dowels, and my first DVD of steps 1 through 19 (the structure). I will periodically add items such as couplers, other bearing bore sizes for different sized lead screws, and maybe a kit or two. Check out the sale page here!

Benefits of Using Cross Dowels

2007-07-29T20:12:00.000-07:00

I created a video to show the use of cross dowels as an alternative to the usual connections. A cross dowel is a piece of hardware to mechanically join two materials usually at right angles. This video Read more...

Benefits Of Using A Cross Dowel - The funniest videos are a click away

Step 20: Driver Part 1 - (Resistors)

2007-07-27T22:46:00.000-07:00

Well... here we are, finally getting started with the electronics portion of the video series. The entire structure of the CNC machine is complete with the exception of the router mount. We will get to that a little later. For now, we will start on the assembly of the HobbyCNC 3 axis chopper unipolar stepper driver. Read more...

Step 20: Driver Board Resistors - Funny blooper videos are here

Step 19: X-Axis Motor Mount

2007-07-25T20:59:00.000-07:00

This is the last of the motor mounts since there are three axes on this machine. After this piece, the only structural component left is the cutting tool mount/holder.

Quick Steps:

Refer to the previous motor mounts with one exception: use one additional nut on the mounting screws. This can also be done on the other motor mounts for extra stability.

Official X-Axis Motor Mount Page

Step 19: X-Axis Motor Mount - More amazing video clips are a click away

Step 18: Z-Axis Motor Mount

2007-07-23T22:07:00.000-07:00

We've just completed the y-axis motor mount, now let's get to the next axis. The z-axis motor mount is very similar in construction to the y-axis motor mount with the exception of the exissting components around where the motor mount will mount.

Quick Steps:

Repeat the steps as demonstrated in the y-axis motor mount.
Prior to placing the mount on the y-axis top bearing support, countersink the two screws/bolts for the top portion of the z-axis rail support so the motor mount will lay flat.

Official Z-Axis Motor Mount Page

Step 18: Z-Axis Motor Mount - Watch the top videos of the week here

Step 17: Y-Axis Motor Mount

2007-07-21T16:10:00.000-07:00

With the Lead screws completed, the motors can be attached. But wait! The motors aren't going to be able to be attached with the screw sticking out of the machine? That's right... the motors will be attached using a motor mount. It's a read sloppy one, but like the rest of this machine, it works.

Quick Steps:

Cut a piece of MDF the size of the motor front but a little wider.
Drill a whole bunch of holes, 4 for the motor mounting holes, one for the shaft, and two for the motor mount mount. Yes, I said that right. It's the mounting holes for the motor mount.
the correct sequence is critical. Drill a temporary hole for the shaft.
Insert the motor and shaft.
mark one of the motor mount holes.
remove the motor and drill the hole.
fasten the motor back in and insert the screw in the newly made hole.
mark the rest of the motor mount holes and drill (after removing the motor of course).
Make the shaft hole large to allow the coupler to existing within it.
Drill the two remaining holes for the motor mount mount.

Official Y-Axis Motor Mount Page

Step 17: Y-Axis Motor Mount - The best video clips are right here

Step 16: X Lead Screw and Nut

2007-07-18T22:11:00.000-07:00

I left the best lead screw for last. The x-axis screw assembly is a cinch. The process is similar to the y-axis but the entire machine needs to be manhandled, tuned on end and the usual disassembly.

Quick Steps:

Mark the inside of each stand where the bottom gantry support meets the stand.
Find the center of the stand and measure up 3/8" (half the thickness of the board).
Remove the stand and drill 7/8" hole halfway from the outside of the stand then drill a 3/4" hole through the remaining wood.
Repeat for the stand on the opposite end.
Remove the bottom gantry support and drill a hole completely through aligned with the holes in the stand.
Drill a hole that snuggly fits the nut and drive the nut into the wood, careful not to split the wood.

Official X Lead Screw and Nut Page

Step 16: X Lead Screw And Nut - Watch a funny movie here

Step 15: Y-Axis Lead Screw

2007-07-16T20:58:00.000-07:00

With the Y-axis nut in place, it's time to add the y-axis screw. Unlike the z-axis screw assembly, the y-axis screw will be attached at both ends. Important note: if you're using 609z type skate bearings, use a 7/8" drill bit to match the outside diameter of the skate bearing. Use the 3/4" drill bit for space for the nut.

Quick Steps:

Drill a hole on the outside side of the gantry through the same hole from step 14. Only drill half way through the wood. This hole will provide a seat for the bearing.
Drill a 3/4" hole the rest of the way through. This hole gives room for the nut to spin freely.
Do this to both sides.
Drive the threaded rod through the gantry, through the y-axis support piece, and through the other side of the gantry.
Screw a nut then a bearing and then another nut onto the threaded rod on each end.
The two nuts other either end of the bearing will secure the bearing in place.
Do this to the other side and make sure to secure the bearing tightly against the gantry sides.

Official Y-Axis Lead Screw Page

Step 15: Y-Acrew - Click here for the most popular videos

Step 14: Y Rails and Y Transmission Nut

2007-07-14T21:49:00.000-07:00

Let's slap on the rails for the rail support. The rails will enable us to assemble the complete package, without the motion control, of course, but we'll get to a portion of that in this video. What about the motors, you say? In time... In time.

Quick Steps:

Cut two rails to the length of the inside dimension of the gantry sides (now established). WE couldn't have cut the rails before we established the gantry sides.
Assemble what we have done so far (y/z axis assemblies) onto the gantry.
Measure carefully and drill and alighn holes for the lead screw.
Drive the nut into an appropriately drilled hole.

Official Y Rails and Y Transmission Nut Page

Step 14: Y-Rails And Nut - video powered by Metacafe

Step 13: Gantry Y-Axis Rail Support

2007-07-12T09:11:00.000-07:00

Finally, the completion of the y-axis with the installation of the y-axis rail support. Now the y and z assemblies can be whole with the gantry. Also, the gantry will gain much better support with this attachment enabling a tight assembly around the x-axis rail support (cutting surface).

Quick Steps:

Cut the y-axis rail support piece to the proper length to provide torque to the x-axis bearings.
Connect the y-axis rail support to the sides with careful attention to level for the cutting surface, and height for the z-axis travel and router.

Official Gantry Y-Axis Rail Support Page

Step 13:Gantry Y-Axis Rail Support - video powered by Metacafe

Step 12: Gantry Bearings

2007-07-11T09:10:00.000-07:00

The linear slide bearings for the gantry is exceptional in relation to the other bearings. These bearings need length to provide maximum support for the weight and size of the gantry.

Quick Steps:

Cut the aluminum angle to the correct length
Drill and tap four holes for 5/16" screws.
Add one bearing and nut to four 3/4" long 5/16" screws.
Screw them into the newly threaded holes
Repeat the step for the other gantry side.

Official Gantry Bearings Page

Step 11: Gantry Bottom Support - video powered by Metacafe

Step 11: Gantry Bottom Support

2007-07-08T09:10:00.000-07:00

To support the gantry, the underside and the top of the gantry will need support to pull the sides around the x-axis. A wide board at a length more than the x-axis rail support piece plus the bearings and angle offset will be needed. In my case, I used two 4" boards since I have limited resources to cut the boards.

Quick Steps

Cut the boards to the length measured after testing the gantry sides assembly. This includes the two gantry sides, bearings, and the x-axis rail support piece with the aluminum angle rails.
Cut the board(s) to the proper length.
Make the connection to the gantry sides.

Official Gantry Bottom Support Page

Step 11: Gantry Bottom Support - video powered by Metacafe

Step 10: Gantry Sides

2007-07-07T09:09:00.000-07:00

Just like the y-axis and z-axis sides, the gantry sides is almost identical except for the size. The gantry will need to hold both the y-axis and z-axis so the gantry needs to be tall and wide. The width will help for overall support for long linear slide bearings, and the height will allow for z-axis travel.

Quick Steps:

Measure and cut the gantry sides. The width should be wide enough to establish a center of balance for the router. The height should be the length of where the router will be supported to the collet plus the height of the z-axis mechanism.
Make grooves for the linear slide bearings.
Assemble the sides to the x-axis rail support piece to determine the lengths for the gantry supports.

Official Gantry Sides Page

Step 10: The Gantry Sides - video powered by Metacafe

Step 9: Z Screw / X Rail

2007-07-06T09:08:00.000-07:00

Let's get a screw into that nut so we can have a mechanical functioning z-axis. This is simply a standard screw with a few other components such as bearings to establish a secure spinning mechanism. Additionally, the x-axis rail are cut to size.

Quick Steps:

Insert the screw through the holes previously made.
Add bearing with two nuts to secure the bearing. On the z-axis, it's only necessary to secure the top since you have gravity on your side.
Leave enough screw above the bearing and nuts to place the coupler.
Add the coupler.

Official Z Screw / X Rail Page

Step 9: Finish The Z-Axis / X-Axis Angles - video powered by Metacafe

Step 8: X-Axis Stands

2007-07-05T09:07:00.000-07:00

How do we lift the cutting surface (x-axis rail support) and reserve a place to the stepper motor, lead screw and nut? With a couple piece of MDF on the front and back of the cutting surface, of course.

Quick Steps:

With boards cut to 4" x 2' connect one to each end of the x-axis rail support making the rail support flush at the top.

Official X-Axis Stands Page

Step 8: X-Axis Front And Back - video powered by Metacafe

Step 7: Z-Axis Transmission Nut

2007-07-03T09:06:00.000-07:00

To provide for transmission of power for linear movement, a nut needs to be placed withing the z-axis assembly, so the screw can turn and the nut secured to the z-axis assembly can move up and down.

Quick Steps:

Drill a bunch of holes aligned through the entire assembly of the z and y axes.
Torque a nut into a hole just smaller than the outside size of the nut.

Official Z-Axis Transmission Nut Page

Step 7: Z-Axis Transmission Nut - Click here for this week’s top video clips

Step 6: Y-Axis Assembled

2007-07-02T08:41:00.000-07:00

Assembly of the y-axis, including the installation of the z-axis rail support and the y-axis back support.

Quick Steps:

Measure the length for the back support and the z-axis rail support by preassembling the components with the help of a clamp.
Measure and cut the back support and the rail support.
Install the back support using the process from "Making the Connection".
Fasten the connections and test the slide.

Official Y-Axis Assembled Page

Step 5: Y-axis Assembly Completion - Click here for more home videos

Step 5: Y-Axis Supports

2007-07-01T21:57:00.000-07:00

To build the y-axis assembly, we can take cues from the z-axis build. Essentially, it's the same process. This video will show the two sides of the y-axis, which in part will control the z-axis motion, and the y-axis rail support.

Quick Steps:

Get a piece of board that will serve as the y-axis rail support. The length will be determined later when we build the gantry. Anticipate the gantry width and cut the piece about 5" longer to have wiggle room.
Chamfer the edges to accommodate the aluminum angle.
Measure and cut for the two sides (actually, it's the upper and lower pieces).
Cut grooves for the linear bearings on both sides.
Assemble, test and measure for the back support.

Official Gantry Y-Axis Rail Support Page

Step 4: Starting On The Y-axis - video powered by Metacafe

Step 4: Z-Axis Part 2

2007-06-30T21:00:00.000-07:00

Now to complete the z-axis assembly. You will be able to see an axis in motion. This is also the assembly that will hold the router and move it up and down.

Quick Steps:

Make the z-axis rail support piece by cutting an undetermined length of board and chamfering the edges to apply angles to each side.
Put an angle on each side and assemble the sides with the linear bearings to determine the measurement of the z-axis back support.
Cut the back support at the determined measurement.
Connect the back support to the two sides.
Fasten it and let it slide.

Official Z-Axis Part 2 Page

Step 3: Z-Axis Part 2 - video powered by Metacafe

Step 3: Z-Axis Assembly Part 1

2007-06-28T20:23:00.000-07:00

The z-axis consist of two sides, a back and rails with a rail support. In this video, we will construct the two sides that will have grooves cut into them to accomodate the linear slide bearings (one each).

Quick Steps:

Cut the two sides to the correct size.
Measure and cut two grooves into each side about 1/8" deep and 1/4" wide. The outside dimension of the grooves should be the outside dimension of the linear bearing.

Official Z-axis Assembly Part 1 Page

Step 3 - CNC Z-axis Build Part 1 - Free videos are just a click away

Step 2: Making the Connection

2007-06-25T20:09:00.000-07:00

This is probably the most important video to understand and learn. It is the method used to connect most of the pieces of the entire CNC structure.

Quick Steps:

Find two pieces to connect.
Drill two or more holes at the size of the fastener diameter (i.e. 1/4" screw) along the edge to be connected. Offset the holes half the thickness of the piece away from the edge. These holes will drill through the face of the board and through the center of the piece to be connected.
Drill 3/4" holes on the face of the other board about a 1/2" away from the edge. These holes must align to the holes on the other board.
Using the holes described in #2 above, put the boards together at a right angle and drill completely through the 3/4" holes on the other board.
Fasten the two boards by inserting a nut into the 3/4" hole and inserting a screw through the hole on the other board to catch the nut. This process is difficult to explain, so watch the video.

Step 2 - Making The Connection - Funny videos are here

Step 1: Linear Slide Bearings

2007-06-24T19:42:00.000-07:00

So, you say you want to learn how to build a CNC machine. This video demonstrates the first step in doing just that. You will learn how to build the linear slide bearing. This bearing is used to provide linear motion to the three axes that this CNC router will have.

Quick steps:

Find an aluminum angle. I'm using the 3/4" angle 1/8" thick.
Cut the angle to about 3 1/2" for the z-axis (the first axis that we will build).
Drill and tap 4 holes to accomodate 5/16" screws or bolts. Two on each side of the angle. The holes should be as close to the inside edge of the angle as possible
Slide a 608Z skate bearing then a nut onto a 3/4" long 5/16" screw or bolt. Do this for four screws.
Screw the bolts onto the outer sides of the aluminum angle.

Official Linear Slide Bearings Page

Step 1 BuildYourCNC: Linear Bearings - Celebrity bloopers here